Mġarr ix-Xini is a one of the best known climbing spots in Gozo. Climbing is centred around the first two sectors one encounters when descending into the valley, Flake Out Wall and Dream Walls, as described in the 2013 Sport Climbing guide book. Over the last few years the Gozo Climbing association and MCC Volunteers have expanded the number of routes in the Waterworks area, which previously only hosted a handful of routes. This sector now has upwards of 50 routes, some of which are reported in this new topo. As the routes haven’t seen much traffic, some holds may still snap off – climb with caution! 

Equipment: All routes fully equipped at time of publication except for routes 14 to 18 – these routes have bold sections which may require some slings / trad equipment in between bolts and in situ threads for novice leaders. Routes 14 to 18 will eventually be fully equipped. All the routes were equipped through the combined effort of MCC volunteers and the Gozo Climbing Association using tools and materials provided by the MCC under the MTA New Routing project.

Access: To get to the start of the trail follow directions to Mġarr ix-Xini from the town of Xewkija. Shortly after passing the cow farm and horse stables you will find a stone hut on the left side of the road. Park here, making sure you leave enough space for cars to pass.

Take the slick cement ramp down into the valley and follow the markers Left (NW) along the top of the cliffs. The trail and markers will lead you along the top of the valley to rock cut steps. Descend into the valley and take the path left (upstream) for around 50m till a hole in the wall. Go through this hole and walk downstream past Dream Walls. Follow the obvious trail, keeping the cliffs on your right, until you reach the Waterworks building.

The abseil point to access the crag (route 14) is around 200m from the parking area – the stance is below the trail mentioned above, shortly after the path makes a sharp turn over a narrow gulley.