Mistra – Cactus Sector – Crag Topo

Rdum Rxawn (Mistra) is a hidden gem on the outskirts of Xemxija. Climbing is centred around the main narrow gulley described in the 2013 Sport Climbing guide book. Shortly after the publication of the guide some routes were equipped further north, in the boulder field, by the resident Spanish climbing community. Most of these routes have now been requipped using Titanium or marine grade Stainless Steel. Unlike the gulley sectors, routes here are slightly overhanging, but still on small, sharp holds. As the routes haven’t seen much traffic, some holds may still snap off – climb with caution!

Stephen Farrugia works out the moves on Quilla 7b. Photo by Simon Alden

Access: Park near Xemxija Fire Station. Please make sure you do not block access for rescue vehicles when parking here. Take the tree lined path heading NE from the back of the parking area, keeping the cliffs and sea to your right. After around 500m, just before the abandoned quarry, head to the seaward cliff edge (R) on a faint trail amongst the bushes. Scramble down a steep corner (2m) to a terrace. Follow the rope to a staple ladder heading down into a narrow gorge. Routes 1 & 2 are behind you as you make your descent. To access the rest of the routes crawl through the hole left of the staple ladder.

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