Rubber Duck, Physique, Ethiopia – and a date with Conchita

  Rubber Duck It was a busy week with even more climbing related activities than usual.  Who’s complaining?   A weekend in Gozo, fully equipped with bolting kit, glue and bolts, all set to take that 60m abseil to continue work on a major new sea cliff multipitch, thwarted by a buddy failure, high winds and rough seas. …

Ta’ Saguna Cliffs, Gozo

First Ascent:  Stevie Haston, Simon Alden 8th  March 2012 Abseil 140m to the left of a groove almost to sea-level.  A series of grooves and ledges characterise the route with a crux psychological traverse at about half- height.  Extreme care needed due to often doubtful rock which will however improve, making this route a potential…

Mistra Bay

St Paul’s Point New Routes, described left to right. This is the point of Mistra Bay overlooking St. Paul’s islands.  A ruined World War II cement bunker acts as a useful point of reference. Don’t Use Hertz Malta    VS 4c 14m. About 25m left of the bunker is a right-facing corner, abseil to a niche just…

Craxy Horse Cave, Victoria Lines

New routes Mental Block   E2 5c   12m. Start as for Whammer Jammer but pull around the right side of the roof into a cramped niche.  Steep moves over the next overlap then past the block to gain a ledge.  Either finish up the arête on the left or step right to the direct finish of Bimbomaniac (see below)….

Dwejra Bay, Gozo – slipway area

Gozo Canute   HVS 4c  (New route) 30m. Start about 5m left of Galley Slave below a black drainage streak. Climb up to this and then slightly rightwards to cross a small overlap at a tufa, continue to a white triangular slab.  This was climbed on the front face, right of centre but it could be avoided by…