Bolting news

Just to update everyone.   A few weeks ago I bolted my old trad route “Gates of Babylon” which is on the West Side of Wied Babu.  Its now about F5+ .   It starts up a short leaning wall to reach a leftward slanting rampline which is followed easily until you can move up on good holds to gain  a block with jugs.  Finish up the V corner above.   There’s a ring for lowering off from at the top.  While bolting the route I noticed the bulges below the ramp showed promise so I placed a couple of bolts to give a new route I named “Call the Cops!”, also about F5/6a.  The route is named like this due to the fact that a couple of policemen were waiting for me on top of the crag when I finished bolting!  Its a long story!  Ask James… 🙂

To the left of these routes is a nice trad line put up by William Hicklin called “V for Vendetta” which takes an obvious crackline.  Climb this steeply on good jugs to reach the crux when the crackline finishes.  Move up and right with difficulty and finish as for the other routes up the V corner.

Topo showing from left to right “V for Vendetta”, “Call the Cops” and “Gates of Babylon” (Pic: William Hicklin)

Today I bolted a new anchor point on top of a route first led by Noel Toledo near Crazy Horse Cave called “Bimbo Maniac”.  The route is just left of the easy ones “Blatant Theft” and “No Insurance” which are in the centre of the crag, and right of “Whammer Jammer”.  The anchor is a bolt with ring and a second bolt as back up for the ring.

I also bolted another old trad route of mine called “Manic Maltese” which is about F6c.  I placed three bolts, one protecting the first bulge, one on the second bulge which protects the crux move up this bulge, and a third one you can clip when established on the bulge.

First ascent of Manic Maltese back in Jan ’88

Hope you enjoy them.

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