Mistra Bay

St Paul’s Point

New Routes, described left to right. This is the point of Mistra Bay overlooking St. Paul’s islands.  A ruined World War II cement bunker acts as a useful point of reference.

Don’t Use Hertz Malta    VS 4c

14m. About 25m left of the bunker is a right-facing corner, abseil to a niche just above sea level.  Pull over an initial bulge, follow the corner and then the steep crack line which splits the left side wall.  VS if you’re used to hand-jamming, or maybe HVS.

(F.A. Nick Taylor, Andrew Warrington 14/7/2011)

Don’t Expect Any Response Whatsoever from Hertz Malta Customer Service    E1 5b

15m. Start from the same niche. Pull over the initial bulge onto a slab right of the corner.  Follow the right side of this to a subsidiary corner, step right (thread and also a tri-cam if you have one) then follow a steep line of holds urgently rightwards to good finishing holds on the right arête.

(F.A. Nick Taylor, Andrew Warrington 14/7/2011)

The remaining routes are accessed by descending down and left of the bunker (looking out) and then traversing back underneath the bunker:

Bunker Traverse  HVS 4c/5c  (DWS 4+/6a, S0)

Keeping just above sea level there is one hard and balancy move on little crimps, which may be avoided by an upward deviation.  (F.A Nick Taylor on-sight solo 3/7/2011)

Pull Up to the Bunker, Baby   HVS 5a * (DWS 5+, S0)

9m. Follows the left hand arête of the face below the bunker.  A well positioned crux with a clear drop zone.  (F.A. Nick Taylor on-sight solo 3/7/2011)

Stop the Bottle-Smashing  VS 4b

8m. Careful climbing up the centre of the wall.  Not recommended as a DWS (S3).

(F.A. Nick Taylor on-sight solo 3/7/2011)

Razor-bucket Arête VS 4c * (DWS 4+, S1)

8m. The right hand arête has some good moves up flowstone with a couple of massive holds.

(F.A. Nick Taylor on-sight solo 3/7/2011)

Continuation Traverse HVS 5c (DWS 6a + more.. S0)

Continue traversing leftwards to Don’t Use Hertz Malta and beyond..

(F.A. Andrew Warrington and the Malta Rock Climbing Club Crew, July 2011)

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