A beautiful spot for swimming, snorkelling, diving and deep water soloing. Locate the cave entrance leading to the mini “inland sea” on the far side of the radio mast. The climbs are located on the walls right of (and above) the cave entrance, looking in. All routes were done deep water solo, lead climbing with ropes would be difficult and gear placements are not plentiful anyway. Deep water solo grades are therefore also given e.g. (6a, S0) is french 6a overall grade for difficulty, S0 means foolproof landing in deep water, not particularly high and no projecting or submerged rocks. Grades go from S0 – S3 with increasing height and hazards. An S1 is usually safe to fall off, S2 probably safe if jumped off, S3 pretty likely to hurt or injure.
Right of the cave entrance is the steep main wall separated from another smaller wall on the right by a narrow gully. Routes are described right to left since they are all approached by descending ledges and the low wall right again and traversing back left. Alternatively the first route described may be reversed.
Malta Rabbit Club VD
6m. The right hand wall climbed or descended right of centre. A ledge just above sea level is the starting point for the traverse leftwards to all the other routes.
(F.A. Nick Taylor on-sight solo 8/7/2011)
Axe to Fall VS 4c (DWS 4+, S1)
8m. Traverse a short distance leftwards to the edge of the gully. Climb the steep arête, pull through onto the left side of the upper wall, continue up this trending leftwards close to the arête.
(F.A. Nick Taylor on-sight solo 8/7/2011)
No Heroes VS 5a * (DWS 4+, S0)
12m. Continue traversing into and then bridge across the gully. Pull around the far arête on good holds at mid-height continue traversing at this level to the centre of the main wall. Continue up and follow the easiest line which moves back right near the top to avoid a steeper section.
(F.A. Nick Taylor on-sight solo 8/7/2011)
Jane Doe E1 5b * (DWS 6a, S0)
14m. From the gully pull leftwards around the arête just above sea level. Continue at this level to reach some obvious vertical cracks just left of centre of the main wall. Climb direct up these to a steep and rather blind finish.
(F.A. Nick Taylor on-sight solo 8/7/2011)
You Fail Me E2 5b ** (DWS 6a+, S0)
20m. Follow the low level traverse to the cracks on the left side of the main wall. From here a superb sequence of moves leads up and left into the steep corner. Psyche up and commit to a swing leftwards onto the hanging wall over the arch of the cave entrance. Finish urgently on sharp holds. Excellent and atmospheric with a safe landing zone throughout.
(F.A. Nick Taylor on-sight solo 8/7/2011)
