Malta report – Day 1 to Day 3 by Johnny Dawes

It won the George Cross during the second world war, the Germans just couldn’t take it – Malta.  When I posted on Facebook for coaching interest the president of the new Malta Climbing Club Simon Alden got in touch.  A month later I am up at 3:30am to go to Luton airport.  The blue and yellow Ryanair colours wake me up, six hours later I am soloing 60 feet above a dangerously turbulent Mediterranean.  Across the sea is Libya.  Crispin Waddy my old friend has been here before, I toprope his E7 6c “Superior Entity”, later I met an amused local climbing star called Jeffrey Camilleri who Crispin told to spot  with a rucksack to push him out a bit, so he’ll miss the super serrated coastline below him were he to fall.

The last two days I’ve coached and guided, found an amazing crackline under a massive arch and a night relaxing in an Arabic spa in a  stone farmhouse, in delightful muted colours. Met a chap from Mile End and tomorrow the Azure Window on Gozo. Today I did a 60ft route called Crazy Monkey – 7a+ I thought.   I haven’t told you the strangest thing.

By coincidence my parents have booked into a hotel just around the bay at the same time I am here.  We’re all going out on the MV Barbarossa, a 75ft twin masted skiff from which we’ll explore  Comino and Gozo,  deep water soloing.  In a week I my book goes to the printer.  Its great to be exploring again.  Can’t wait to see what else this fantastic island has in store.

JD demonstrating his techniques during one of the workshops at Ghar Lapsi
At Mellieha Cave checking out the sports routes


2 Comments Add yours

  1. John says:

    This climbing looks great. Which weekend would you recommend visiting? I can only get the bank holidays off in 2012. this lists them. I want to go when the weather is good also. thanks john

    1. Hi John, Apr May June would probably be best for climbing. The island will be greener in April but you’ll have an even higher chance of warm sunny weather in May and June. Although the chances are that it will be sunny in April too! The sea will still be quite cold for DWS in April though at about 13deg, whereas June sea temperature will be warmer obviously. Hope this helps – let me know if you need any more info!
      best regards

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